A phase-resolving cross shore sediment transport model for beach profile evolution     

K. A. Rakha  R. Deigaard  I. Brker 《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

A phase-resolving wave transformation module is combined with an intra-wave sediment transport module to calculate the on-/offshore sediment transport rates. The wave module is based on the Boussinesq equations extended into the surf zone. The vertical variation of the mean undertow and the intra-wave sediment concentrations are calculated. The net sediment transport rates are calculated, and the equation for conservation of sediment is solved to predict the beach profile evolution. The results of the present paper showed that the undertow contribution to the sediment transport rates is not dominating in all parts of the surf zone, even for eroding beaches, suggesting that other contributions should not be neglected. The present model also showed that for the same offshore wave energy the time series of the oscillatory motion is important and that the effect of wave groups cannot be disregarded.  相似文献   

Les coraux (Scléractiniaires et Hydro-coralliaires) de 'atoll de Takapoto, îles Tuamotu: Aspects écologiques     

Dietrich H.H.  Kühlmann  Jean-Pierre  Chevalier 《Marine Ecology》1986,7(1):75-104

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黄河三角洲潮滩发育时空谱系   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

崔承琦  印萍 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1994,(Z3)

研究黄河三角洲潮滩发育的时空话系指出：在时间上，黄河三角洲潮滩系由不同时期河口滩发育而成，各段潮滩发育时间因素的差异在比较形态学上有清晰反映，在空间上，并存着处于不同发育阶段上的四种类型（阶段）。由此构成了黄河三角洲前沿所特有的湖滩形态时空体系。  相似文献   

我国主要育珠贝(蚌)贝壳珍珠层的扫描电子显微镜研究   总被引：8，自引：0，他引：8  

张刚生  谢先德  王德强  童银洪 《热带海洋学报》2003,22(1):55-61

采用扫描电子显微镜（SEM）对我国海水马氏珍珠贝Pinctada martensi(Dunker），大珠母贝Pinctada maxima(Jameson）、企鹅珍珠贝Pteria penguin(Roeding）和淡水三角帆蚌Hy-riopsis cumingii（Lea）贝壳珍珠层内层面的形貌特征进行了研究，结果表明，4种贝壳珍珠层均呈砖墙式结构，珍珠层中文五笔型小板片呈不规则多边形至六边形，直径为1.3-4.5μm，厚度0.35-0.85μm，同一种类贝壳中文石小板片的形状及粒径均匀一致，反映了生物矿物化的特殊性。珍珠层沿壳内层面与棱柱层过滤带中均存在初始生长的文石小晶体结构排列较混乱的现象，与成熟珍珠层中文石小板片的定向排列结构明显不同。  相似文献   

两个同源地不同路径热带气旋的大尺度场对比分析     

舒锋敏  林良勋 《海洋预报》2007,24(4):102-108

本文利用NCEP/NCAR再分析格点资料,着重对8903号"BRENDA"和0601号"珍珠"两个同源地进入南海后不同路径的典型热带气旋的大尺度环境场进行对比分析。结果表明:西风槽的强弱和东移的快慢、西太平洋副高的形状变化和东退西进、冷空气的强弱和南下路径及热带气旋内部的不对称结构是造成二者移动路经差异的主要原因。另,印缅槽的变化也对其路径差异有一定的作用。  相似文献   

The role of bathymetry and directional wave conditions on observed crescentic bar dynamics     

Rinse L. de Swart  Francesca Ribas  Gonzalo Simarro  Jorge Guillén  Daniel Calvete 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2021,46(15):3252-3270

Nearshore sandbars are important features in the surf zone of many beaches because they strongly influence the mean circulation and evolving morphology. Due to variations in wave conditions, sandbars can experience cross-shore migration and vary in shape from alongshore uniform (shore-parallel) to alongshore rhythmic (crescentic). Sandbar dynamics have been studied extensively, but existing observational studies usually do not quantify the processes leading to crescentic bar formation and straightening. This study analyses the dynamics of crescentic bar events at the fetch-limited beach of Castelldefels (northwestern Mediterranean Sea, Spain) using 7.5 years of hourly time-exposure video images and detailed wave conditions. The results show that, despite the generally calm wave conditions, the sandbars were very dynamic in the cross-shore and longshore directions. They often migrated rapidly offshore during storms (up to 70 m in one day) and more slowly onshore during post-storm conditions. Crescentic bars were often present at the study site (48% of the time), but only when the sandbar was at least 10 m from the shoreline. They displayed a large variability in wavelengths (100–700 m), alongshore migration speeds (0–50 m/day) and cross-shore amplitudes (5–20 m). Wavelengths increased for larger bar–shoreline distances and the alongshore migration speeds were strongly correlated with the alongshore component of the radiation stresses. Crescentic patterns typically developed during low–medium energetic waves with limited obliquity ( $\theta \lesssim 20$° at 10 m depth), while bar straightening occurred during medium–high energetic waves with strong oblique angles of incidence ( $\theta \gtrsim 15$°). Overall, this study provides further proof for the important role of wave direction in crescentic bar dynamics and highlights the strong dependence of crescentic bar development on the initial bathymetric configuration.  相似文献   

Sector collapse,sedimentation and clast population evolution at an active island-arc volcano: Stromboli,Italy   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

P. Kokelaar  C. Romagnoli 《Bulletin of Volcanology》1995,57(4):240-262

Sciara del Fuoco is the subaerial part of a partially filled sector-collapse scar that extends to 700 m below sea level on Stromboli volcano. The collapse occurred <5000 years ago, involved 1.81 km³ of rock and is the latest of a series of major collapses on the north-west flank of Stromboli. A north-east trending arc-axial fault system channels magmas into the volcano and has caused tilting and/or downthrow to the north-west. The slope of the partial cone constructed between the lateral walls of the collapse scar acts as a channelway to the sea for most eruptive products. From 700 m below sea level and extending to >2200 m and >10 km from the shore to the NNW, a fan-shaped mounded feature comprises debris avalanche deposits (>4 km³) from two or more sector collapses. Volcaniclastic density currents originating from Sciara del Fuoco follow the topographic margin of the debris avalanche deposits, although overbank currents and other unconfined currents widely cover the mounded feature with turbidites. Historical (recorded) eruptive activity in Sciara del Fuoco is considerably less than that which occurred earlier, and much of the partial fill may have formed from eruptions soon after the sector collapse. It is possible that a mass of eruptive products similar to that in the collapse scar is dispersed as volcanogenic sediment in deep water of the Tyrhennian basin. Evidence that the early post-collapse eruptive discharge was greater than the apparent recent flux (2kg/s) counters suggestions that a substantial part of Stromboli's growth has been endogenous. The partial fill of Sciaria del Fuoco is dominated by lava and spatter layers, rather than by the scoria and ash layers classically regarded as main constituents of Strombolian (cinder) cones. Much of the volcanic slope beneath the vents is steeper than the angle of repose of loose tephra, which is therefore rapidly transported to the sea. Delicate pyroclasts that record the magmatic explosivity are selectively destroyed and diluted during sedimentary transport, mainly in avalanches and by shoreline wave reworking, and thus the submarine deposits do not record well the extent and diversity of explosive activity and associated clast-forming processes. Considerable amounts of dense (non-vesicular) fine sand and silt grains are produced by breakage and rounding of fragments of lava and agglutinate. The submarine extension of the collapse scar, and the continuing topographic depression to >2200 m below sea level, are zones of considerable by-passing of fine sand and silt, which are transported in turbidity currents. Evidently, volcanogenic sediments dispersed around island volcanoes by density currents are unlikely to record well the true spectrum and relative importance of clast-forming processes that occurred during an eruption. Marine sedimentary evidence of magmatic explosivity is particularly susceptible to partial or complete obliteration, unless there is a high rate of discharge of pyroclastic material into the sea.  相似文献   

基于GIS城市洪水淹没模拟分析   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10       下载免费PDF全文

向素玉  陈军 《地球科学》1995,20(5):575-580

城市洪水淹没范围动态模拟分析是城市防洪规划与防治决策的一个重要基础工作。本文主要研究洪水从翻堤口出发在地理空间蔓延、扩散、动态行进及确定淹没范围的数字模拟方法。为此,根据数学形态学及测地圆概念,研究设计了洪水扩散范围的“膨胀”模拟算法和淹没范围搜索算法,用于查询淹没通块中从翻堤处到任一点之间的淹没路径和ｔ时刻洪水扩散范围。  相似文献   

青藏高原植物形态和解剖适应性研究进展     

张卫芸  唐亚 《山地学报》2006,24(B10):294-299

与低海拔地区相比，青藏高原的太阳辐射、水分条件、氧分压、气温等环境条件都有明显差异，青藏高原的植物在细胞壁厚度、栅栏细胞层数、通气组织大小、异细胞数量和分布、表皮附属物类型等方面与低海拔地区的相比也有较大的不同。综述了在青藏高原特殊的生态条件下，植物在形态和解剖方面的适应性表现，分析了该领域目前的研究特点和存在的一些问题，并在全球环境变化背景下，对其发展前景进行了展望，指出了未来的发展趋势。  相似文献   

西北地区泥石流沟形态因素的非线性分析——以兰州市为例     

李建林  冯起 《干旱区地理》2006,29(5):658-662

以兰州市区96条主要的泥石流沟为例,利用分形理论的统计自相似性对泥石流沟数的累计分布随沟谷形态要素沟道比降、汇水面积和沟道长度的变化进行了分析;并与不同流域形态要素的分维进行了比较,探讨了分维不同的原因。兰州市区泥石流沟三个形态要素均具有统计意义上的自相似性,其中以汇水面积显示出分维最小(0.46),沟道长度次之(0.71),沟道比降最大(1.09)。分维的大小描述了作为系统的沟谷及其泥石流的形成的空间结构,即分形结构,同时也反映了不同形态要素对系统所起作用的差异,分维越小,所起作用越显著。其结果对西北干旱半干旱地区石流灾害的进一步研究与防治提供了新的思路。  相似文献